Tulum, Mexico
Ah Tulum, what an interesting place. You either love it or you hate it, it’s a very polarizing place. However despite the development, high costs and how it seems to have been colonized by expats…it is a fascinating study in market development, globalization and human dynamics.
Tulum is a dual-nature, high energy place requiring balance in every way. The place acts as a mirror and brings out the extremes, requiring balance between feminine and masculine energies, between movement/action and space/peace, between awareness/reality and illusions/desires. If you are to be challenged personally, Tulum is the place to do it.
There are numerous guides on Tulum, particularly highlighting the most ‘instagrammable’ places to visit. However I think by treating a place as a checklist, oftentimes the magic of what naturally makes a place special is overlooked. And you can experience the facade of a place without ever fully experiencing its truth.
This is a locals guide for living and experiencing Tulum as it is.
The Case for Tulum
The main demographics reflect Gen Z’ers and young millenials. Money and appearances matter here and people come to Tulum to party, escape, make/spend money, feed/build egos, and to experience commercialized spiritual classes. Yes there is a lot of superficiality and capitalistic culture that is inherent here, but what makes it interesting is that there a lot of people who seek a different way yet somehow it remains the same. People who move here are seeking an alternative, are entrepreneurs, are hustlers. If you come from a city and/or enjoy the Caribbean tropical lifestyle, Tulum in theory is well suited to your needs.
Tulum is for people who are active, love the sun/humidity, the ocean; appreciate good design; eat healthy and live a somewhat glamorous lifestyle; who love to explore and socialize and be out and about all the time. There are so many activities, day trips, beaches/cenotes/towns to explore up and down the coast of Costa Maya and it serves as a good jumping off point to travel throughout Mexico and Central America.
When I was living in Tulum, I would wake up in the morning and open my balcony doors to the warm Caribbean breeze, to the sights of lush jungle, and the sights and sounds of colorful birds and butterflies. I would eat tropical fruits for breakfast and buy fresh coconut milk and water by the liter. I would drive my motorbike all around town; my favorite was driving by the open expanse of playa mirador on my way to the beach or a class. I would take a dip in the ocean or swim in the cool waters of the cenotes just 15 minutes from my apartment. Daily/weekly I would see little rainbows all around my apartment in the early mornings, and I would view stunningly dramatic colors and cloud formations from the rooftop of my building at sunset. There was magic and energy moving all around. Experiencing it only when I was able to slow down, accept challenges, and connect with the magic and intense energies of Tulum.
Tulum Energy
Tulum energy is subtle yet intense, dark and powerful, tricky and alluring. It sneaks up on you and plays games. Water flows beneath and all around Tulum, always moving. The energy here is fast moving, intense, charged, emotional. It is importance to balance this with awareness, pacing yourself, slowing down, and drinking lots and lots of water and eating nutritious and grounding foods. The energy will act as a mirror and present situations to test and challenge you. There is a lot you can experience and learn here in Tulum if you lean into it. It’s like being on a high and the more you resist and fear it, the more challenging it will be. Living here requires a balance of release/flow and being aware/intentional.
Where to Rent
The basics, where to live. You can find most rentals via airbnb and then try to negotiate a longer term rate (which is what I did). It definitely is doable if you arrive towards the tail end of the busy season (April) or during the off season (April-October). Longer annual leases can be done via rental companies (you can connect with them when you get into town). During off season there are also a lot of people looking to rent out their places for a few months if you’re looking to stay for a very short period of time. I preferred the neighborhood of Aldea Zama (or La Veleta) for modern amenities.
Transportation
If living in Tulum you must rent a car or a motorbike to get around, period. Taxis are very expensive and you will need to be able to get around between beach and town, and to do day trips outside of Tulum.
You can rent a car online or at the airport (also available locally but more expensive), or can rent a motorbike in town (more expensive and pricing for tourists) or locally in your neighborhood via local whatsapp groups. You may be tempted to buy a bike via Facebook marketplace but you must make sure you can provide proof of residency for your bike registration.
Gas is super affordable for motorbikes (cost me around 100 pesos for a full tank). Gas can be purchased at one of the three Pemex stations immediately in town.
Food, Groceries & Markets
Fresh local vegetables and meat were very hard to locate but I was able to crack it and find some key spots around town.
Woolies Market: fresh local greens, vegetables, fruit, eggs, homemade yogurts, salsas/condiments/sauces, wood fired granola
Fruterias: there are many fruterias around town but I usually went to the Frutas y Verduras Pool in town as it was next door to Woolis. Here you can find affordable fruits (mangoes, avocados etc) and vegetables.
Co.Con.Amor: organic bulk pantry and home goods, everything from dr bronners castille soap, laundry detergent, shampoo, conditioner (you will need this as the water is very hard), to honey, peanut butter, olive oil, to rice, lentils, herbs and teas. Bring reusable jars and bottles
Gypsea Market: expensive but a larger grocery store that sells everything and caters to people who prefer a ‘whole foods’ type store. Not everything is organic but it as close as you can get to getting somewhat cleaner pantry items. Can get ‘organic’ frozen meats, cheese, wine, fruits, bulk pantry items (similar to co.con.amor), pasta, rice, milks, oils etc.
Italdo (next to Gypsea): imho the best italian sourdough bread you can find in Tulum.
El Abasto: Argentinian deli that sells great sandwiches, frozen chorizos and pastas. I go here to purchase deli meats and charcuterie for sandwiches. They have jamon and proscuitto.
Matcha Mama: where you can buy fresh coconut milk (130mx) and coconut water (90mx) by the liter (make sure to return glass jars for bottle deposit), as well as cold pressed juices by the bottle (100mx)
Chedraui and Super Aki: are two of the largest grocery stores in town. And they sell everything. If you do not have a car and need to purchase bulkier items that won’t fit on a motorbike, you can use the Chedraui app to purchase items for delivery (which is free with a minimum $15US spend). They will set a timeframe for delivery an is excellent for ordering large 10-20L water jugs, household cleaning supplies and items, etc.
Make sure to bring reusable grocery and produce bags as most plastic is eliminated. You can save jars and bottles and reuse for bulk pantry items.
Restaurants
There are a lot of food options in Tulum. Prices have increased dramatically and most of the beach spots cater to tourists. If living locally, you’ll find the better quality and somewhat more affordable eateries in town/pueblo.
Here are some of my favorites:
Asian Bodega: fusion “Asian” food but still tasty. they have two locations - one brick and mortar restaurant, and one at Palma Central.
Indian Express Curry House: amazing indian food from a window
Sushi: Ka Sushi
Pizza Papi: wood fired vegan pizzas (surprisingly good), same ppl as Matcha Mama
Matcha Mama: cold press juices, and expensive frozen acai bowls
El Abasto: deli sandwiches
Taqueria Maya, Taqueria Honorio, La Chiapaneca, Los Pinches Taqueria (nothing mind blowing but all will do the trick if you desire tacos)
Burrito Amor: burritos
Los Morros Aldea Zama: aguachiles and ceviches
Giungula: my favorite gelato spot although you can always go to Campanella but not as good imho.
Cafes: Alfonsina, Botanica, La Guarida
Mezzanine: still my favorite OG Tulum spot for thai food overlooking the ocean. Higher end, but still beautiful and worth it.
Salon
Casa Venus: best haircuts, in aldea zama.
In Tulum the water is very hard here and it actually made my hair fall out within the first month. I highly recommend purchasing a natural conditioner and a clarifying shampoo for hard water. Conditioner first, shampoo last. You can also use an apple cider vinegar wash to help with the ph balance and to ‘soften’ the water.
Community / Classes
There are numerous places to take classes based on your interests, whether it’s diving, art, learning Spanish, or spiritual classes. Some community oriented places / hang out are:
Ikal (my favorite)
Nomade
Diamante K
Holistika (personally I did not like this place but they do offer many classes if you’re new to town)
Beaches and Beach Clubs
If you’re looking to splurge and be on the main Tulum beach then it’s Nomade for me.
Nomade
Coco Beach Club
However I’m not looking to spend that kind of cash when living here so I prefer going to Club de Playa Caleta Tankah for $300mx to swim in the crystal clear waters of Cenote Tankah. Basic food and drinks, beach lounger and umbrellas, crystal cenote waters for swimming, and no loud music.
I also enjoy going to the beach at Akumal for a calmer and more pristine experience.
Cenotes
I love swimming in the cool, clear waters of cenotes and it is perfect for an afternoon dip or for clean swimming during the sargasso season. I am partial to the open air cenotes :)
Here’s a list of my favorite cenotes to check out:
Cenote Tankah
Cenote Corazon
Cenote Escondido
Cenote Encantado
Casa Cenote
Vesica Club for a bougie cenote experience
Laguna Kaan Luum
Not to mention there is some incredible cenote diving in Tulum and I highly recommend it! You can go with the many diving centers in town.
Day Trips
Bahia Akumal
Bahia Soliman
Cenote Tankah
Cenote cave route north of Tulum
Si’an Kaan Biosphere
Muyil
Azulik Uh May
Coba
Weekend Trips
Diving in Cozumel
Valladolid and surrounding cenotes
Chichen Itza
Ek Balam
Isla Holbox
Bacalar
Mahahual
Money
Cost of living is obviously quite high here and is one of the most expensive places to live in Mexico. Prices are on par to American prices as many people come from cities. If you’re looking for an affordable place to live, Tulum is not it.
Credit card is widely accepted and almost preferred at many places (especially if tourist spots) but cash is always good to have on hand. Make sure you have an international friendly credit card with no international fees.
ATMs: you can withdraw pesos from BBVA or HSBC or the other ATMs in town/pueblo. Make sure you don’t accept their conversion rate and you use the one via your bank. Also helps to have a debit card that reimburses you for foreign ATM fees.
Please make sure to tip here as wages are low in mexico and the cost of living is higher in/near tulum. The basic minimum is 10-15%.
Adaptation
Living in Tulum challenges you in many different ways. If you are aware of this and of yourself, it might require you to make some adjustments in order to adapt and live in a more sustainable manner. The energy here is high and fast moving, and it is also sneaky. It is easy to be unaware of it and many people who are asleep will be constantly moving, doing, working and will experience burnout, stress, aggression, anxiety, and a sense of unexplainable uneasiness. This place has much to teach people about themselves. Tulum is a place of shadow, duality and extremes. It acts as a mirror only to reinforce what you know/see or to make you question what you believe/see. If you let go and lean into it, learn how to embrace the challenges and learn from them, you will be able to cultivate peace and ease in any place. The key is to slow down and to listen. Calma Calma.
Ask for permission when entering sacred and natural places including the jungle, cenotes, ruins. There are a lot of spirits and energy all around and this place is very populated with them. Ask for permission and show respect always and you will be granted a beautiful experience.
